Kumquat-Peppercorn Compote with Sheep's Milk Cheese

Cut 1-ounce pieces of an aged goat's milk cheese such as Haystack Mountain Goat Cheese "Queso de Mano" or Major Farm's Vermont Shepherd cheese and serve with 2 or 3 tablespoons of kumquat-peppercorn compote and slices of Italian-style bread toasted with a little butter.

This easy-to-make compote works nicely with many different cheeses, but an aged sheep's milk cheese is particularly good. Although the compote is sweet, you can easily turn this into a savory course by adding a bit of proscuitto along with the cheese. In this case, think about serving this cheese plate before the meal, as a hors d'oeuvre.

• 1 cup water
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/4 pound kumquats, cut crosswise into 1/8-inch-thick slices and seeded
• 2 teaspoons whole peppercorns
• 1 star anise
• 6 ounces aged sheep's milk cheese (or use any aged goats' or cow's milk cheese)
• 6 large slices hearty Italian-style bread
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

To make the compote: In a medium heavy-bottom pot, place water and sugar to a boil. Continue cooking until the mixture is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Turn heat to medium-low and add the remaining ingredients. Cook, stirring occasionally, until kumquats are soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. (Makes about 1/2 cup).

Cut each slice into three pieces each. Place on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until light brown. Turn and butter the slices. Toast until golden brown. Let cool completely.

To serve, place a little compote on each slice of bread. Serve the cheese alongside.

Serves 6

Perfect Pairs
The peppercorn is mellowed slightly by the cheese, though it still adds a bite, and the orange flavor calls for a like characteristic in the wine. The best accompaniment is an orange or black Muscat dessert wine, a late-harvest Sémillon, or a late-harvest Gewürztraminer.

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